A recipe
for great cotton.
Most cotton isn’t grown for quality. It’s grown for speed.
Think about this for a moment:
Only 1.4% of the world’s cotton is organic.
That means nearly 98% is farmed for mass production, not excellence.
It was never planted to be the best.
But when you grow for quality, that changes everything.
The three strands of great cotton.
To understand what makes the best cotton in the world, we need to dig deeper into three key factors:
1. Why does climate matter?
2. Why does soil matter so much?
3. Why does hand harvesting make a difference?
It turns out great cotton isn’t down to one single thing. But the rare coming together of climate, soil, and craftsmanship.
Or, as my old geography teacher used to say… ‘geography matters, Mister Hieatt.’
Why is altitude important for cotton quality?
It plays a crucial role in growing the best cotton. This was not surprising, but just how was.
1. Cooler nights, stronger fibres.
At higher altitudes, daytime temperatures remain warm, but nighttime temperatures drop.
This slows down the plant’s metabolism, allowing the cotton fibres to develop more densely and with greater tensile strength, making the fabric more durable.
2. Less pests, less pesticides.
Insects that damage cotton crops thrive in lower, warmer, humid conditions.
Higher elevation cotton farms naturally have fewer pests, meaning less need for synthetic pesticides, resulting in a cleaner, purer fibre.
3. Longer growing cycle, longer fibres.
Because of the cooler climate, cotton plants take longer to mature, which allows them to develop longer staple fibres. Long-staple fibres produce stronger, smoother yarns, which create softer, more durable denim.
4. Better moisture regulation.
High-altitude cotton farms experience morning dew and slower evaporation, keeping the soil consistently hydrated without overwatering. This means less stress on the plant, resulting in healthier cotton bolls.
There is a saying that ‘the higher the altitude, the higher the quality of cotton.’ This has a lot of truth to it, but, as important as it is, altitude alone is not enough. It needs the other two strands, too.
Why does soil fertility play a crucial role in cotton quality?
Soil isn’t just dirt. It’s the foundation of cotton quality. Let’s dig down on why:
1. Nutrient-rich soil = stronger cotton fibres
Cotton plants need a balanced diet of essential nutrients to grow long, strong fibres. The most important ones include:
- Nitrogen (N): Supports plant growth, but must be controlled—too much nitrogen weakens fibre quality.
- Phosphorus (P): Helps cotton develop deep roots and strong cell walls, which translates to durable fibres.
- Potassium (K): Improves fibre strength and length, ensuring a softer yet tougher finished fabric.
The more nutrient-rich and uncontaminated the soil, the better the cotton fibre quality.
2. Healthy soil produces longer fibres
- Cotton grown in nutrient-depleted soil struggles to develop long, high-quality fibres.
- Longer fibres mean: Smoother yarns (no roughness or pilling). Stronger denim (fibres resist breakage).
Better dye absorption (deeper, richer indigo).
3. Organic matter = moisture retention & soil health
- Soil fertility depends on organic matter (decomposed plants, compost, etc.), which acts like a sponge to hold moisture and nutrients.
- Drier, over-farmed soil = weaker, brittle cotton.
- Rich, living soil = resilient, flexible, high-quality fibres.
Organic matter, matters.
4. Contaminated soil produces inferior cotton
Mass-produced cotton is often grown in chemically overused fields.
- Pesticide buildup affects fibre purity.
- Heavy metals & pollution degrade cotton quality.
- Soil depletion forces farmers to rely on artificial fertilisers, which can lead to weaker fibres.
If you have the perfect altitude, plus the perfect soil, you are nearly there.
Why hand-picked cotton matters for quality?
Not all cotton is harvested the same way, and this matters.
Machine-picked cotton prioritises speed. Hand-picked cotton prioritises quality.
Here’s the difference it makes:
1. Protects the integrity of the fibre.
- Machine-harvested cotton pulls cotton bolls aggressively, often breaking, twisting, or shortening the fibres.
- Hand-picking keeps the fibres long, intact, and undamaged, which is critical for premium denim.
Longer fibres = stronger, smoother yarns = higher-quality fabric.
2. Produces cleaner cotton.
- Machines scoop up everything—including leaves, dirt, stems, and even oil from the machinery.
- This means more contamination and more chemicals needed to clean it later.
- Hand-picked cotton is carefully selected, ensuring purer, whiter fibres with less debris.
Cleaner cotton = better dye absorption and richer indigo fades.
3. Enhances softness and durability.
- Hand-picking preserves the natural softness of the cotton because the fibres aren’t stressed or frayed.
- This results in denim that feels softer at first wear but is still tough enough to last for years.
4. More sustainable and ethical.
- Many machine-harvested cotton fields are over-farmed to maximize speed, which leads to soil depletion.
- Hand-harvested cotton is often grown more sustainably, with smaller farms focusing on quality over quantity.
If you have the perfect altitude, plus the perfect soil, plus hand-picked cotton, you have all the ingredients for the best cotton in the world
These are the ingredients for the
best cotton in the World.
Sign up for 24h early access
Sign up for early access and updates from Hiut Denim. Unsubscribe anytime. Privacy